The next day saw me up bright and early, renting a bike with a heart full of adventure and anticipation. I planned to bike up to Ross Castle, catch a boat up through the three lovely lakes of Killarney National Park, break for lunch, and then bike through the gorgeous Gap of Dunloe between the mountains of the national park, and back into town.
The morning started out well enough. It was a breezy ride up to the castle, where I lounged lakeside until the boat arrived. The boat was bright red, wood, and deceptively large for its appearance. How did it manage to hold 5 bicycles, their riders, and the boatman?? Traveling comfortably with me was another French family- I just keep running into them! And a lucky thing, too, as they spoke very little English. I had so much fun acting as translator, and it was no easy feat. Over the noise of the boat motor and through his heavy accent, I myself had a hard time understanding the boatman. I was really proud when he asked me to jump out and tie up the boat when we arrived, only later realizing that he asked me because I was the only one who spoke English.
I ate my packed lunch quickly at the little cafe near the dock and then set off. Looking back, it is clear that I should have had a better map (mine looked like a child had colored it with a crayon) and that it would have been helpful if I had asked directions, but I did no such thing. There were little signs posted by the cafe and I was feeling confident.
Cycling through pastures just beyond the cafe, I came to an abrupt stop as two sheep hurtled across my path, a sheep dog in close pursuit. The farmer was not far behind and he victoriously grabbed hold of one of the sheep by the horns as I stood motionless amid the commotion. The rest of the sheep in the field were bleating wildly as he put the captured one inside a van and sped off, leaving me gaping in the dust. It was really quite a scene.
Moving on, after a short time I came to a fork in the road, with very little signage. One way had no sign, the other had a little brown one marking the "kerry way" with a symbol for a backpacker on it. Taking this as my cue, I continued down the kerry way. Surrounded by mountains, with sheep populating the nearby pastures, I found the scenery to be quite impressive. At least, I found it impressive between deep heaving breaths for air, as I soon discovered that I was pathetically out of shape and the road was mostly uphill. But I continued valiantly onward, alone except for the sheep, who eerily stared at me as the only non-sheep creature moving in the area.
An hour of huffing and puffing later, my road abruptly ended at the home of the sheep farmer. Where had I gone wrong, I wondered. At the very first fork in the road, the farmer kindly informed me. Best of luck to ya! And wouldn't you know it, the same road seemed to be mostly uphill on the way back, too.
Another hour later, I was back at the fork and realized that I had never even entered the Gap. I was disheartened, but with a better sense of direction (and only one road remaining unexplored) I took the road more traveled and... made it halfway up the enormous mountainside before I stopped to reconsider. My map was crap, I was all alone on an enormous mountainside, my bike was cumbersome and useless on this punishing ascent, the Gap was still no where in sight, and the little cafe from whence I had set out was still visible- a wee little speck down by the lake. I was beaten. Defeated. Vanquished. In short, feeling just plain exhausted and frighteningly isolated.
I took a deep breath, surveyed the dramatic mountain/pasture/lake views (now more intimidating than endearing) and decided to descend back down to the little cafe. At least I was sure of how to get there and I knew it was all down hill! Cycling back into the cafe, I was honestly pretty shook up and mad at myself for not being more well-prepared. It didn't get any better when the server informed me that the last boat had left for the day and that the only way out was to bike it, by one difficult route or another. Well, at that news I had to sit down for a bit. There was no one else there except for a youngish couple enjoying a rest.
The wife approached me and inquired if I was okay. Well I wasn't and that was pretty obvious. She informed me that she and her husband were going to hike through the Gap and that I was welcome to join them. But first, she suggested, I should have a cup of tea and a chocolate bar. Well my spirits brightened somewhat at this, and I went and bought a cup of tea. Seeing that I hadn't purchased the chocolate bar, she bought one and gave it to me. So sweet! But I was still pretty shaken and I needed some time to calm down a bit before setting out again. So the couple set off with the invitation that I could catch up in a few minutes.
Well to make a long story a little bit longer, the cafe server came up to me a few minutes later and offered to put my bike in the back of her car and drive me through the Gap, since she was headed that way. What an offer! What a kindness! Of course I accepted.
And thank God!! The road through the Gap of Dunloe is perilous! It ascends for a good bit and then descends dramatically, with corkscrew and hairpin turns the entire way, and a road only wide enough for one car but made to accommodate two-way traffic. Whenever two cars met one was forced to go in reverse and find a small small patch to pull to the side. Holy moly. Who in their right mind would recommend that someone bicycle through the Gap? Besides my guidebook and the woman who rented me the bike, I mean. Ugh! The Gap was crawling with hikers (Where had they all come from? Why did I never meet any of them on the road?) and was in reality incredibly beautiful, but again this beauty was overshadowed by the pure sweaty fear of imminent injury.
Safely through the Gap, I thanked the incredibly kind woman for her help and biked determinedly back into town. I rewarded (or maybe just soothed) myself with a scoop of locally made ice cream- Bailey's Irish Cream flavored. Very calming and tasty if I do say so.
After such a big day, Cathy and I made a big dinner together (Cathy had wisely seen other, less perilous sights that day). We had spaghetti with meat sauce and made an apple crumble from scratch with vanilla custard on top- such fun! Then we relaxed with friendly game of Monopoly and a wonderfully early bedtime.
That was more than enough adventure for one girl in one day.
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