Thursday, April 10, 2008

Connemara: Mountains, fields, forest, a fjord, lakes, coast, sea...

Yesterday was my lovely visit to the Connemara region, home of the filming locations for "The Quiet Man" and "The Field", the Kylemore Abbey of Irish Benedictine Nuns, and the only fjord in Ireland.

I made my way around on a large coach tour bus, barely a third full. Plenty of room to spread out and snap some great photos through the large windows. We saw the "Quiet Man" bridge and then stopped for coffee in the village and pub where they filmed "The Field". Inside the pub, I was warmly welcomed by two ancient irishmen, already well into a pint of Guinness at noon. Lunchtime, I guess! On my way out after a cup of coffee, I shook hands with each of them which really impressed them. "What a nice girl. Aye, a nice girl" I could hear them comment to each other as I went out the door.

The Connemara region is famed for its beautiful mountain ranges and seaside views. It also has Ireland's only fjord, a sea inlet surrounded by mountains. We saw some very nice countryside and lots of cows and sheep- it is different from Iowa as there is much more shrubbery and stones throughout the fields. Words certainly don't do the region justice, so be sure to see the photos when I post them after the trip. Speaking of Iowa, on our tiny tour who should be there but a couple from Des Moines, Iowa?! Seriously, small world.

We spent the afternoon at Kylemore Abbey, home of Ireland's Benedictine nuns (all 9-16 of them, ages 50-100, depending on who you ask) and a private boarding school for 150 girls. Originally built as a castle-home by a rich man in the 1880's, it also features a 6 acre Victorian garden and a small cathedral-style chapel. Sadly, the chapel was commissioned by the man when his wife died only three years after the castle-home was finished. It is a very beautiful place to mourn, I would have to say.

In the afternoon we drove along the coast and saw the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, and the Aran Islands in the distance. Just a taste of what was ahead for me! Upon our return to Galway city, I walked down to the Cladaugh area, on the coast. There is a population of about 100 mute swans on the coast, which was such a calming and beautiful sight to see. Above my head the seagulls circled, emiting their comforting cry. I am always surprised by their call, it is like a bell that brings me to consciousness of how close we are to the ocean.

While admiring the swans and seagulls, I was approached by another old irishmen who was truly a sight to be seen. Fisherman's cap, thick gloves, taped glasses, near-toothless but frequent grin, a rusty old bicycle, - the works. With pride, he jumped into a lively explanation of all of the sights along the coast and the history therein. "Did you know Christopher Columbus visited Galway right there in such and such year? Yes he did! And the ships used to come right in here, where all these houses are now. This was all harbor not that long ago...." At one point he quoted something or other, and a young woman interrupted us and finished the quote! She was from Galway, too, and she too had things to share about the area. Soon we were all walking and talking together, back in the direction of the city center.

We parted ways after a bit and I went back to my favorite fish and chips shop, for another dose of greatness. While there, I met a wonderful young woman from Berlin named Sabrina, and we had a fantastic chat as well. Turns out we had been in the same pub in Dublin (The Cobblestone) on the same night, within a few hours of each other. Again, small world! Afterwards we went for coffee together and I was sad to find out that she was returning to Dublin the next day, it would have been nice to hang out with her some more.

Today was another great outing, this time to the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher. I will be sure to write about it soon! Tomorrow I leave early for a seven minute flight to Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands. I will explore the island by day and enjoy the pub by night, as I am staying overnight on the island! Can't wait to tell you all about it!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

wow you are so amazing. i wish i would have explored more of ireland. but really you should try one more pint of guinness but ask for a guinness and black currant. they will surely know what it is and you will like it i am sure. its just got syrup in it so its much sweeter. a crazy irishman told me that irish men drink guinness and whisky and irish women drink guinness and black currant.
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